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Fred Meijer White Pine Trail State Park - Pere Marquette RailTrail

 

Fred Meijer White Pine Trail State Park - Pere Marquette RailTrail 

Cadillac – Crooked Lake Resort – Midland Michigan

99 miles – 2 days

September 14 & 15, 2023

 


My wife, Bonnie, dropped me off at the Love Church parking lot (Sunnyside Dr @ S141 Rd.) at 7:30.  The trail crosses S141 Rd. about 30 yards south.  It was only 38 degrees and I only had cycling gloves with no finger tips, so after a few minutes I got out my extra socks and put them on over my gloves.  Soon after crossing under US 131, at Hibma Rd. the trail was absolutely closed.  I panicked a bit since my wife was already heading for home and I had over 90 miles left to ride.  Fortunately, I noticed a small but precise little sign which described the recommended detour.  Basically, turn right on Hibma, stay on that, until you reach Cleveland Rd., turn left, turn right when you get back to the trail in about 20 yards.  Hibma turns into Tustin Rd.  both of which seem to be packed sand; firm, smooth but a bit rolling.  The detour was about 3.5 miles long but only added about half a mile since Tustin Rd.  runs almost parallel to the trail.  I suppose by the time you read this, the trail will be open again. 

 

Stopped to warm up in Tustin at the Village Grill; coffee and a cinnamon roll.  Typical coffee klatch of fellows discussing the current news.

 

Saw one deer, 7 turkeys and one man with a dog.  No one else was on the trail.  The trail is wooded on both sides on a majority of this stretch.  Ordinarily, I would love the shade, but due to the temperature, I enjoyed what sun I could get. I kept all 4 layers on until almost Reed City.   I never had to put my feet down at a crossing.  I did have to balance for a few seconds as an Amish buggy passed.

 

Saw a few cyclists as I reached Reed City at 11:00.  About 29 miles down, 27 to go for the day.  I had lunch at the 7 Slot Grill, a Jeep themed restaurant and ice cream shop.  I had eaten there 3 other times on bike trips.  Easily visible from the park where the bike trails intersect.  There does not seem to be a cafĂ© in Hersey and Evart was too far to wait for lunch.

 


At Reed City I basically turned left, east on to the Pere Marquette State Trail.  At first the trail is a bit rough and beat up.  Perhaps this is due to use by snowmobiles?  Quite a bit of this stretch is also wooded on both sides but, there were more open parts with fields and tree farms.  Still very little cross traffic.  I stopped at the scenic overlook of the Muskegon River.  The seats are wide and flat, so I took a bit of a nap. 




 

I went up Main St. in Evart, found Sixth & Main, and had cup of coffee.   There is a McDonalds and a Subway on the highway but I was looking for a more historic, local business.  As I left Evert and crossed the railroad bridge, I met a cyclist in a straw had and overalls.  I recognized this as typical Amish garb.  There are Buggies Present signs on the highway, so I was not surprised.  A few miles later I saw that I was going to meet a large group of cyclists, and I thought perhaps some were on recumbent bikes.  As we neared each other, I realized that there were two women on mobility scooters.  One was pulling a small trailer with toddlers in it.  Following them was a group of 5 younger women on normal bicycles.  All were in typical Amish dresses.  All going in to town, evidently.

 

I was low on water and disappointed with myself that I forgot to take my bottle into the Sixth & Main.  I checked my phone to see if there was perhaps a store near the trail up ahead.  I was happy to see that Gibb’s Super Store was right on the trail.  When I arrived, I saw a sign advertising snacks and beverages, even though it is primarily a feed store.  When entering the store, it is quite clear which direction they lean politically.  Trump’s name and Trump merch are everywhere.

 

The trail gets very close to the highway at Lake Station.  I picked up some beverages and snacks at the Citgo.  I arrived at the Crooked Lake Resort (and bait shop) at about 3:30. 56 miles for the day. There is an accommodations sign right on the trail.  A steep two track takes you up the road and the resort office.  If you’re headed East, and you get to the caboose, you went too far.

 

I had reserved the Lakeside cottage.  It was charming!  Out front there was a shaded wicker love seat which overlooked the lake.  I enjoyed my cashews with Gatorade.  



Vacationers are required to bring their own towels, and so I brought a small quick dry towel from my backpacking gear.  The resort owner called and offered to bring a couple more towels down since I arrived by bicycle.  I accepted the gracious offer.  One small downside to staying in a resort versus a hotel is that I had to make my own bed before my nap.  After 56 miles, wrestling with the fitted sheets and the double bed mattress was a challenge.  I showered, napped, and walked down to the Lakeside Bar & Grille.  Service was cordial and the burger was good.  I bought a large bottle of water at the general store on the way back to the resort.  After dinner, I enjoyed the sunset down on the waterfront, on the swing.  After dark, I went down for a bit of star gazing.  There is plenty of open sky over the lake, but there is also a lot of background light.

 

I slept well and later than usual.  There are three restaurants in Lake Station but none is open for breakfast so I brought instant oatmeal and instant coffee for my ‘first’ breakfast.  Crooked Lake Resort was the highlight of my trip.  The location is very scenic, and the cabin reminded me of other favorite vacation spots.  Their normal policy is a two night minimum stay, but they were happy to accommodate my single night if I would pay a cleaning fee. 

 





I had my second breakfast at the Nest in Farwell at the 7.4 mile point.  It was busy.  Quite clean.  My blue berry hot cakes were great. I saw 6 deer between Farwell and Clare.  There are frequent seats and benches along this segment.

 

The trail ends about 3 miles east of Farwell.    You must ride along the highway for 2.5 miles.  The shoulder is smooth and maybe 6 inches wide.  Perhaps I just missed them, but I saw no signs to lead me back to the trail in Clare.  Eventually I turned right at Pine street and by luck found a green US Bicycle Route 20 sign, and the beginning of what seems to be a Clare community connector trail to the final segment of the Pere Marquette RailTrail. 



Officially, the 30-mile section between Midland and Clare is known as the Pere Marquette Rail-Trail, while the section west of Clare is known as the Pere Marquette State Trail.  When heading east, after Clare, one gets the feeling they are on a different, much more cared for trail.  There are small signs indicating this segment has been recognized in the Rails-to-trails hall of fame. 

https://www.railstotrails.org/trailblog/2009/october/01/michigan-s-pere-marquette-rail-trail/

 

Pavement is wider than any other trail I have ridden.  There are informative signs at every crossing, including a grid including distances between all towns on this segment.  Rest rooms are clean and some are located between towns.  Snowmobiles are not allowed on this segment.

 


I had lunch in Sanford which is 35 miles from Crooked Lake Resort.  Salad bar hit the spot for me. I took another short nap on a bench at the Titabawassee River overlook.  From there, it was a short ride into Midland.  Total of 43 miles for the day.  My friend Stan was waiting.


Relevant links

https://walkbike.info/grandrapids/maps-guides/trails/fred-meijer-white-pine-trail/

https://walkbike.info/grandrapids/maps-guides/trails/pere-marquette-state-trail/

https://www.peremarquetterailtrail.org/trail-map/

Friday, April 19, 2019

Epilog

In April, 2019 I took 5 Grand Canyon hikes on trails which Jerry Forster and I had taken over the course of our 17 trips.

  • South Kaibab to the river
  • Bright Angel back to the rim
  • Tanner day hike
  • Grandview day hike
  • Hermit day hike 
To get the best format of the photos, click on the first one and it will fill the screen, then click on the second mini-photo at the bottom of the screen.  You may click through all the photos in this manner.  You won't get my captions but, the pictures are better in the larger format.


We always managed to get to the rim before sunset whether we flew into Phoenix or Las Vegas, whether the South Rim or the North Rim. I had dinner at the Bright Angel Restaurant as we always did, then stopped in at Babbits for last minute supplies.


South Kaibab Trail 

We hiked down South Kiabab 3 times and hiked up once.  When Jerry took his daughters, Amy and Nancy, they went down this trail.  That is Jerry's hat perched on the sign.



Every day Jerry ate a Cliff Bar with his oatmeal, and every day we shared an orange.  If we ate one that he carried, he would share 40% and vice versa.  We never discussed it.  It's just how it always worked out.

Cedar Ridge is the first natural rest spot on the S. Kaibab trail.  There is a rest room and the mule parties stop here.  Jerry never liked to hang around.  Too many people.


Looking out from Cedar Ridge towards O'Neil Butte.  Note the switchbacks falling off to the right.

Skeleton Point is where those switchbacks begin.



A little closer look at the switchbacks. Many of the lines in the trail mark step downs of about 15 inches.

I was a few weeks earlier than our normal dates.  There were very few flowers in bloom.

The Tipoff is where the trail leaves the sort of level Tonto Platform and begins the seemingly endless descent into the inner gorge.
The trail winds down the canyon wall until you can finally see the bridge over the Colorado River.


At the same moment, if you look to the left, you can also see the climb from Bright Angel Campground, among the trees, up to Piano Alley.  At this point, you are below Piano Alley in elevation.  I'm guessing that Jerry did not point all that out to Amy and Nancy at this moment.

We always had more hiking to do when we had arrived at the Bright Angel Campground, but we found a shady spot for lunch, a nap, and soaked our feet in Bright Angel Creek.


Following our nap, we would wander over to Phantom Ranch and get a glass of the best lemonade in the world.  Now days it is $4.50 for the first glass but only $1.00 for refills.  Seems like a great deal when you've hiked down to get there.  We once had the hiker stew dinner at Phantom.  This year I lucked into a steak dinner, a bunk, breakfast and a packed lunch.

Bright Angel Trail
After eating at the early sitting for breakfast, I was walking by 5:22.  I was able to put my headlamp away when I reached the river.


We hiked up the Bright Angel trail twice.  It is the trail that Jan and Trina hiked up when they did the raft trip with us in 1993.  Amy and Nancy also hiked up the Bright Angel with Jerry and John.  This is the point where the trail leaves the river and the real hike begins.  This is where the rafts dropped us off in '93.

Looking up toward the South Rim.


After an hour or two, looking back down toward the river and the north rim.

Entering Tapeats narrows, our favorite part of the Bright Angel Trail.  We always made it here before the sun was overhead.  There is a bubbling brook and all the life that water brings in the desert.

A very tempting place to take a break but there are benches up ahead.


Indian Garden, half way.  Shade, benches, running water, toilets.  I don't think we were ever here when the temperature was below 80 degrees though.

After leaving Indian Garden you are faced with this view.  The normal question is, "How are we going to get up that?"
The answer to that How question.  If you study this photo, you will see 5 switchbacks.  This is only the beginning.

Looking toward the North Rim from above Indian Garden.


3 mile house; 3 miles from the rim.  8 miles from Phantom Ranch.  Jerry might let us take a break here depending on how many people were here at the time.

I omitted a picture of Mile and a Half house.  Jerry never wanted to stop there, due to all the day hikers that are inevitably there.  There are two tunnels.  When you reach the first one, you are getting close to the rim.

When you reach the second tunnel, you are almost done.  I was walking with a ranger when I reached this point.  The subject of the memorial hike came up.  She asked if it was bringing back memories.  I said, "Not enough."

We are officially back at the rim.  Time to clean up at the campground showers and drive into Flagstaff for a great salad and a Sizzler steak.  (This year I postponed that part of the tradition for a few days since I had three more hikes.)

Tanner Trail 
Tanner was the first trail Jerry and I descended in 1991.  You can read more about it in the first chapter of Best Stories, available on this blog.  This year it was snowy up on the rim, but the snow was not "sticking" on the trail, so I started the hike as planned.

I kept my eye on the weather over the canyon.

There is a saddle of rock with large rocks perched on top, like the back of a stegosaurus.  At this point I checked up behind me to see if I could now see the rim.  The snow had almost stopped, so I continued the hike.  

Looking down, through the Stegosaurus Rocks you can see down into 75 Mile Canyon.  On our hikes of this area, we always reached the other end of 75 Mile Canyon, at the river, in a few days.




I turned around at this point.  It overlooks the point at which the trail falls off the right side of the mesa and starts the steepest, loosest descent of the Red Wall Limestone that we ever did.  (And we did it four times.)  It also over looks a bit of the Colorado where we had camped four nights as we hiked along the buttes to the Little Colorado River.





Near the Rim, looking out on the day's hike.


Done for the day.  Back on the rim.
The next few photos are taken from the Dessert View Tower which is about mile from the Tanner trail head.  This photo shows the two bowls that the trail winds through and the turn around point which is a bit right of center.







Jerry and John and I hiked all the way down to the river, at a point just across from the large volcanic, black rock wall.  Twice we subsequently hiked up the river another 10 miles.

 Grandview Trail


On our first Grand Canyon adventure we came back out to the South Rim via the Grand View Trail.  We also came out this way in 2011, our last trip in this area.









The trail switch backs down the face of the cliffs for an hour or so until suddenly you get this view framed between the canyon wall on the right and the butte on the left.  You get a clear understanding of how much rock you have come down.

On our first trip, we camped on Horseshoe Mesa with John and Matt Leonard, who had met us down on the Colorado.  We had come up from Hance Creek and had refilled our water bottles at Page Springs.




There were active mines on the mesa early in the last century.  There are many artifacts such as the stone building in the center of the picture.


The view from a particularly nicely appointed camp site.  Such a bench is quite a luxury in the back country.



This photo shows how steep and high the Red Wall Limestone is.  It can only be climbed or descended where there are geologic faults, in only a few places in the Canyon.

Looking across the abyss to the faint trail which hugs the edge.  Jerry said this kind of trail got his adrenaline pumping.


The composting toilets are inside the wooden enclosures.  Not a lot of privacy but a great view from the seats.


Jerry was the very best at finding shade in the desert for breaks.  He would have liked these spots.



Grand View has thousands of stones carefully placed to keep the trail from eroding away.  The pictures never reveal how steep it really is.


Looking back down to Horsheshoe Mesa and toward the North Rim. The trail works its way down the slope in the right side of the photo.




Back to the trail head on the South Rim.

Hermit Trail 
The Hermit Trail was our second adventure and we repeated it with John Leonard in 2000.


The Boucher Trail forks off the Hermit in the valley in the left of this photo.  It winds across the face of the butte in the center, and on one occasion we hiked back into the bowl on the right of the photo to enjoy the Hermit Spring.  On two other occasions we proceeded along the Boucher Trail about 8 miles.


A shady spot with smooth, horizontal "furniture" on which to rest.  We probably rested here.


The trail junction noted above.

My turn around point on the Hermit Trail, looking down on the Hermit camp in the innermost gorge, and if you can locate the bit of white water, the Hermit Rapid.

There is also the Santa Maria spring right on the Hermit Trail.  Next to the spring is a shady, cool stone shelter.  I believe the bench was there in 1992, but who brought the rocking chair down?


Is that rain across the river?

After a few minutes of light rain, it switched to heavy snow, but only for 10 minutes.

Back to the trail head on the rim.

The Cliff bar is eaten.  The last orange is gone...